If you visit Vienna in late summer or autumn, you may notice a cloudy, slightly fizzy drink appearing at wine taverns, markets and little stands around the city. It looks a little like grape juice, tastes dangerously easy to drink, and is one of the surest signs that autumn has arrived in Austria.
Meet Sturm – one of Austria’s most delicious seasonal traditions.
What exactly is Sturm?
Sturm is grape must that has begun to ferment but has not yet become finished wine. In other words, it is caught right in the middle of the transformation from grape juice to wine.
Because fermentation is still taking place, Sturm is cloudy, lively and often gently sparkling. It tends to taste fruity and sweet, although its flavor changes as fermentation progresses. It also contains alcohol, so despite its innocent, juice-like taste, it should definitely be treated like an alcoholic drink.
You will most commonly see white Sturm, but red and rose versions are available too.
When is Sturm season in Vienna?
Sturm is a true seasonal specialty. It begins appearing toward the end of summer as the grape harvest gets underway and is closely associated with early autumn in Vienna. Traditionally, Sturm season runs through the autumn wine harvest and winds down around St. Martin’s Day on November 11, when the young wine of the new vintage takes center stage.
That short season is part of the fun. If you are in Vienna in September or October, trying a glass of Sturm is a wonderful way to experience something that locals genuinely look forward to every year.
There is Sturm etiquette!
Austria being Austria, even a glass of half-fermented grape juice comes with a tradition or two.
Instead of raising your glass and saying Prost!, the traditional greeting with Sturm is Mahlzeit! – and traditionally you do not clink glasses. You may also hear that Sturm should be held in the left hand.
Why? Sturm is sometimes described as wine that has not yet been baptized. Once it has completed its transformation into wine, normal wine-drinking etiquette can resume.
Where can you drink Sturm in Vienna?
For the most atmospheric experience, head to one of Vienna’s wine-growing districts and enjoy Sturm at a traditional Heuriger or Buschenschank. Vienna is unusual among major European capitals because vineyards are genuinely part of the city, particularly around areas such as Grinzing, Nussdorf, Neustift am Walde, Stammersdorf and Mauer.
During Sturm season, many Viennese wine taverns serve it. Some lovely areas to consider include the vineyards around Nussberg and Nussdorf, traditional Grinzing, and Stammersdorf in Vienna’s 21st district. You can also find Sturm much closer to the city center during the season, but drinking it among the vineyards is hard to beat.
What should you eat with Sturm?
Sturm works beautifully with hearty autumn food. A classic pairing is roasted chestnuts (Maroni), but at a Heuriger you can also enjoy it alongside Austrian cold cuts, cheeses, spreads, bread and other traditional wine-tavern dishes.
One small warning: because Sturm is still actively fermenting and can taste deceptively sweet, it is very easy to forget that you are drinking alcohol. Take your time with it, particularly if you are sampling your way through Vienna’s vineyards!
Can you take a bottle home?
You can buy Sturm by the bottle during the season, but you may notice something unusual: the bottle should not be tightly sealed. Fermentation continues after bottling, producing carbon dioxide. A tightly sealed container can therefore build up pressure.
Keep it upright, keep it cool and do not treat it like an ordinary sealed bottle of wine, especially if you are carrying it back to your hotel.
A little taste of Viennese autumn
Vienna has plenty of famous culinary traditions, from Wiener Schnitzel and Sachertorte to coffee houses and Gruner Veltliner. But Sturm is different because you can only experience it for a brief window each year.
If your trip falls during Sturm season, make room for an afternoon at a Viennese Heuriger. Sit outside if the weather cooperates, order a glass of Sturm and something good to eat, and enjoy one of the simplest and most local pleasures of autumn in Vienna.
Planning a trip to Vienna? At Austria Tours & Travel, we create private tours and tailor-made experiences in Vienna and throughout Austria. If you would like to discover Vienna’s wine culture, traditional neighborhoods and local specialties with a private guide, visit our website and get in touch. We would be happy to help plan your stay.